I booked a flight for 8PM, when I picked up the ticket, the departure was rescheduled to 8:20, and when we checked in, it was 8:30, but running 40 minutes late. Then, for a while, they said it was on time. Then it went back. We did get out, about an hour late, and then had to wait in an air traffic control holding pattern for a while before landing in Bangkok. Our driver was not there to meet us, either. It turns out the voucher was wrong, and I didn't catch that before leaving. We took a car for 700 Baht, and reached the Ambassador Hotel at about 11:30PM.
My father's main bag was also damaged. He has a soft-sided rolling bag, and it was torn near the base. We had to check with Bangkok Airlines baggage service, who arranged to pick up the bag at our hotel the next morning, and repair it. Suffice to say, we were aware that we may need to purchase more luggage in Bangkok.
The booking at the hotel was also wrong. My travel agent has done a very good job for me in the past, and the arrangements in Cambodia went smoothly, so I am inclined to question the efficiency of the local operator. Only one room was booked, and it was a smoking room. They found a non-smoking room available "in an hour" so I had to wait. We had a quick dinner at the hotel café, I had fish and chips and pad thai, and it left a lot to be desired. My father had pad thai. At 12:30AM my room was ready, and I fell asleep quickly.
On waking up and taking a quick inventory, the room lacks electrical outlets. I'd give the hotel two stars, if the bathroom were more modern it would get three. The bed room is spacious and the bed is comfortable, which is important. There isn't much in the way of control of water temperature in the shower, the two spigots turn about 45 degrees from off to full.
Breakfast was less than spectacular, a standard buffet with a few Asian items. The main Asian item, noodles, was all gone by the time we arrived.
After breakfast, we set out for the Grand Palace. It was a difficult trip. First, we learned that the Grand Palace was closed for a Buddhist holiday, but knowing the lack of honesty among Thai taxi drivers, we didn't believe it. Next, a taxi driver refused to turn on the meter after agreeing to do so, so we ended up exiting the taxi while moving. Eventually, an honest taxi driver was found, and we ended up at the Grand Palace. We found our way into the grounds, and went in.
If you've been to Bangkok, odds are good you have visited the palace at least once. Inside is the famous emerald Buddha. That is one of the highlights of the palace. Just the enormous number of ornate buildings also adds to the place. My father really enjoyed seeing the place, and found it fascinating.
Our next stop was Wat Pho, home of the reclining Buddha. My father also found that pretty cool. Maybe, ten years after my first visit, I'm a little jaded, but there was nothing new here for me, apart from enjoying my father's reactions.
After that temple, we went to a little restaurant for lunch. I had a very delicious pad thai and tom yum gung, my father had rice noodles with Chinese kale. (My father is one of six people on the planet who actually claims to like kale.) It was excellent, and the total price was under 300 Baht. The food here is so good, and so inexpensive! Eating out in Bangkok is one of my favorite activities.
We took a walk after lunch through a market near the river pier, and then we took the river boat shuttle across to Wat Arun. I had not visited Wat Arun in 1996, so it was new to me. This temple is of Khmer design, with the same damned steep steps. Still, it was beautiful, and it stands in great contrast to the other temples here.
After Wat Arun, we crossed back, and went back to the hotel. For my father, this has not been the best hotel, and he's not got the right temperament for dealing with the Thai style of doing business. He had expected to be changed to a non-smoking room, and even confirmed the change in the morning, but when we returned, we found they were all booked. I visited his room, and it was appalling. The curtains stank of smoke, and the floor had that rotten smoke stench. To be blunt, it was filthy. It is in both of our natures to raise hell about that, but that's not how things are done in Thailand. Cajolery is a better method, but the damage was done. I asked that, since it is a medical concern, and since they were unable to honor the reservation, they should at least clean the room thoroughly. I insisted that the curtains be replaced. I don't think it helped much, as the air is so thick that when you get off the elevator, you immediately get a headache, but I tried.
I also directed a question to my travel agent in email, asking for a partial refund. We'll see if anything happens.
The good news is that Bangkok Airlines returned my father's damaged bag, and you could hardly tell it had been damaged. There were a couple marks on the luggage to show where the repairs were made, and they'll be removed with some cleaning. We were both amazed.
After that, we settled in the hotel bar to relax before dinner. I managed to find a wireless internet connection, and I logged in and cleaned up all my email. Well, almost all. We relaxed for the rest of the afternoon before going to Anna's Café for dinner. It was a short ride in a taxi, and the food was superb. We split an appetizer of minced catfish with garlic, chile, and onion, and we also ordered deep fried fish in chile sauce, pad thai, and deep fried soft-shell crab with garlic. The food was superb. We slept well.
Wat Arun |
Wat Arun |
Wat Arun |
Wat Arun |
Wat Arun |
Wat Arun |
Wat Arun |
Wat Arun |
Wat Arun |
Wat Arun |
Wat Arun |
Wat Arun |
Wat Arun |
Wat Arun |
Wat Arun |
Wat Arun |
River |
River |
We woke early and had the buffet breakfast. This time, they had noodles, and they had "home fried" potatoes. The potatoes were actually stone cold. Tomorrow, we will give it all a miss.
This day we decided to check out the animal life. We opted first to visit the Dusit Zoo, in Dusit Park. I was initially hesitant, but the place wasn't too bad. My father liked the elephants, and the aviary was pretty cool. But, for me, the highlight was a wild animal loose on the zoo grounds, a small monitor lizard! It was only two feet long, and was in a hurry to get away from us, but it was a nice sight.
After the zoo, we crossed the road to visit the Royal Elephant Museum, which spoke a bit to the hierarchy of elephants in Thai history. There's a lot more than you could imagine, and probably more than you ever cared to know. Suffice to say, white elephants (albinos) are the top of the hierarchy.
We headed back to the hotel briefly, where I confirmed our ride to the airport, and also confirmed that the Plaza Athenee would be willing to hold a pair of bags for me until I returned.
We went out on Sukhumvit Road for my father to do some shopping. We walked down between two skytrain stops, and also visited a Robinsons, but he found nothing he wanted. So, we went to the Snake Farm, where they raise venomous snakes for the harvesting of venom for the manufacture of anti-venom. They had a slide show of the snakes, then a demonstration with king cobra, cobra, banded krait, hanuman, and other snakes. This really impressed my father, and I also found it interesting.
Getting too and fro we used the Skytrain in Bangkok. This method of public transportation was not present in 1996. It is an elevated rail system on the east side of the city. For 50 Baht, my father and I had round trips to the Silom Road area. The real advantage of the system is that it avoids the traffic on Bangkok streets.
Upon out return, we rested. I got my laundry back (late) and packed the small bag for the Plaza. At 6PM, we set out for the Athenee and for dinner. We opted to visit Taling Pling on Ped Road off Silom Road. We took a taxi, then another taxi after dropping my bags. It was in the second taxi we got to experience the ubiquitous Bangkok traffic jams. We traveled about 4 kilometers total, with over 30 minutes of waiting time. It was close to a walking pace.
At dinner, I had a rice cake appetizer, and Penang duck. My father went for Penang chicken, we split fried rice, and we also opted for soups. My soup was spicy sour shrimp and vegetables, his was a tom yum soup that included langoustines. The food was very good, and despite the traffic issues, I'll try to go back. We did take the skytrain back, and that was a 1 kilometer walk from the restaurant. I took a hot shower before bed, in the hopes it helps with the warmth, and it did. I slept solidly until 5:30 AM.
A Stork |
A Stork |
A Stork |
A Stork |
A Monitor Lizard |
A Monitor Lizard |
A Monitor Lizard |
A Monitor Lizard |
A Hen |
Birds |
A Crow |
A Hall on the grounds |
Farewell to Thailand, for me, for ten days. For my father, who knows? I had to finish my packing after my morning ablutions, but since I reorganized my bags last night to prepare a bag for my return, there wasn't much to do. A little music, and a little reading of macroeconomics.
All images are © Copyright 2006 James C. Armstrong, Jr.